plant
Jasmine
Jasminum grandiflorum
Origin
Cultivated historically around Grasse in the Alpes-Maritimes of southern France, and on a large scale in Egypt and the Indian state of Tamil Nadu. The flowers are hand-picked before dawn in late summer to capture peak aromatic content, then processed by solvent extraction into a concrete and absolute.
The smell
Richly floral and heady, opening with a fruity, almost overripe sweetness. The heart is deeply indolic, carrying an animalic, fecal warmth balanced by a luminous, honeyed floral lift. It dries down with a tea-like, slightly green warmth that persists.
Key quality
Its high indole content gives it the animalic depth that distinguishes true jasmine absolute from synthetic florals.
Historical use
Introduced to Europe via Moorish Spain, jasmine became a foundation crop of the Grasse perfume industry from the 16th century onward. Mughal emperors of India used jasmine in attars and scented their courts with the flower.